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G503 WWII 1945 Ford Jeep Engine Cylinder Head Torque Sequence

This article shows how to remove and install the Go Devil engine head and the torque sequence of attaching the Cylinder head.

This article applies to Ford GPW WWII Military Jeeps 

1. Before we show the sequence of tightening the head to engine sequence, lets back up and show how to remove the head then, adding the gasket and applying the sequence. If you loosen the bolts and the engine head does not come off easy, then try to use the compression to pop it off. With the bolts and studs back on the head but loose, try cranking the engine and see if the compression will pop a section off of the head. if so, you can pry it off from there.

2. Assuming you have the head gasket off and ready to replace, lets look at where the studs go. You should have 14 studs for this year, as the studs were found to be more reliable than bolts which changed after Apr 43 for MB's.
Special Note:For GPW's Position 14 changed to a Stud at Serial # 188637. In addition, All Positions became studs after serial # 242994

3. On your Go Devil Engine you should have:

13 - 7/16" x 14NC x 3 7/16" x 7/16" x 20NF in positions all except 12
1- 7/16" x 14NC x 3 7/8" x 7/16" x 20NFposition 12
Note:The change to studs for GPWs was Dec 44 (after GPW 242994). Original change for engines was started on engine MB 288835 (Nabholtz).

4. Be sure you use a quality torque wrench to tighten the cylinder head bolts and studs. You can find lots of different types and qualities from $10-$100.

5. As shown in the TM 9 -803 manual, the order of the tightening sequence is shown. Note: to start, you should only torque each of these to about 50 lbs pressure to start.

6. The TM shows that the studs should be Torqued 60-65lbs

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